Day 4 – June 2, 2025

I slept longer than planned, so it was only around 8 am by the time I had jumped onto the saddle. I quickly packed my things and headed out, eager to make the most of the day ahead. By this time, I had already found a way to get back to Budapest, that would be a train ride from Trieste via Ljubljana - so was now heading to Trieste in Italy. On my trip in 2019 (en route to Corsica), I rode from Rijeka down to Pula on the east coast of the Istrian peninsula, then back north on the west coast. This time I decided to cross the peninsula at its northernmost part - that is the most direct of all routes - however, a strenuous one, as you have to cross quite a few mountains.

I spotted a road some 20 kilometers south of Opatija and rolled down the hill my camping was located on, to the main road - which was quite busy. Studying the map more closely, I noticed that this road would eventually veer south, which was not the direction I was planning to go. I noticed another, smaller road, and noticed that this road was the one I had just dropped down from the camping. It did look like a steep road, judging by the many turns and switchbacks, but it would take me over the mountains towards the west, in the general direction of Trieste.

So I turned around and was now heading back to where I started from, swearing a bit - but just a bit. Then it became a real tour de force, a crazy climb! I had to stop once or twice to catch my breath, but the view down to the sea below was quite stunning. Interestingly, most of the houses - what houses, mansions - up on the hillside were vacation homes for renting, as one sign after the other gave away.

On the way up

There was a section for which I needed 3 hours just to cover 15 kilometers - so my average was nothing to be proud of. As the houses ended, I was now riding in the middle of a forest, with the many turns that I had spotted on the map earlier. Eventually, I reached a nature park, called Učka, which is on a mountain range that separates the Istrian peninsula from the rest of Croatia. After a quick water stop at the modern visitor center, I continued and reached the summit, from where there was a nice drop downhill. Well, the road ahead was not entirely flat, a few climbs waited for me still.

The landscape of the northern part of Istrian Peninsula

Eventually, I reached the town of Buzet, which is famous for its truffles, but it was not truffles, but some delicious cookies I had bought. I contemplated for a while whether I should make the climb up a hill to the old town, but decided against it.

Old town of Buzet

I continued on a main road towards the west. The road was not too busy, but it was not really scenic either.

After a while, I reached the next border crossing, this time leaving Croatia, entering Slovenia. After a tiring climb, I spotted the sea again - this was the western part of the Istrian Peninsula.

Port of Koper

I experienced a nice looong drop down to the coast, arriving at the town of Koper, the largest port of the country. I had been there on multiple occasions in the past, but this time I did not stop in the center, I just wanted to continue towards Trieste.

Outside Koper, there was a nice bike path - for a while, but it ended abruptly - and while on my 2019 trip I rode through the hills separating Koper and Trieste, this time I decided to follow the coast, on a small road. Outside Koper, rather late, I spotted a beach on concrete slabs, not too pretty. However, I had been at the swa since the previous evening and had not yet bathed. I changed and jumped into the rather rough waters - it was quite refreshing after my long ride that day.

After the short swim, I arrived at the rather nondescript border crossing leading me to Italy, and continued on the coast, with some 15 kilometers or so remaining. I reached the town of Muggia, which was bustling with people enjoying their dinners and ice-creams. Especially the piazza was really nice - now we are in authentic Italy!

Welcome to......real authentic...Italy!

I rode through the town, then continued towards Trieste. As on an earlier trip, I spootted the world headquarters of Illy coffee, then found myself riding on a broad road leading to the town center. I had two goals in mind for the evening - the first one was to find the railway station, to enquire about the train ride planned for the evening of the following day - as I was unable to purchase a ticket online. The other was to find my favorite ice-cream place not far from the station - a place I had visited at least five or six times, with excellent desserts there.

Alas, the first goal I missed, as it was already 9 pm at the station, and they had been closed for over an hour. The next one I made just barely - I was the second-last guest at the icecream parlour, they were closing as I was enjoying my delicious reward for the day - and were to remain closed for the following day, Tuesday. Had I arrived five minutes later, even that target would have been missed, so I guess I got lucky.

Until then, I had no idea where I would sleep that night, but I knew Trieste has many places to offer - and as it was a Monday night, I was not all too worried. I found a nice room in a hotel near the center for €60, but hesitated before booking it - by the time I did decide to go for it, it was sold out - others were quicker. Hmmm, I checked Airbnb and got lucky - an even better place was available for just €50 - so I promptly booked it.

The road to my room led med through the center of the beautifully lit city - there was quite some construction on my previous visits - it was apparently worth the effort - the town looked marvealous - once again, authentic Italy!

Triest at night - 1Triest at night - 2Triest at night - 3

After a bit of a search, I found my room, which was a good deal for its price, having a beautiful entrance, a comfortable bed, nice kitchen, good bathroom.

Entrance to my apartment

I threw down my stuff and decided to ride around the streets and alleys of the city. I had been there quite a few times in the last few years, so I knew where to head for; the streets with the many pubs, the Roman amphitheater, the opera, the main square, the canal - all wonderful places. Trieste is definitely not "nothing special" - as someone I knew judged about it, at least for me.

Main squareRoman amphitheater

First I was not hungry, but close to midnight, the only place I found was a Turkish kebab place - the food served there was everything but haute-cuisne.

It was only after midnight by the time I arrived at my room, showered and fell to bed.