Day 19 – Sunday, August 24, 2025
There was a pleasant breeze during the night, so most of my stuff dried – and the space, a covered patio, was a fitting one for this. Alas, a few things were still wet, so I waited a while for these to dry. It took a while to collect and fold everything – so my departure was only at 10 am. It was a good feeling to be nice and clean, shaved, bathed – so I was ready for a nice day.
From the ferry the previous day, I had spotted a sizable ancient castle up on a hill – and decided not to ride past it. It was clear it would be quite a climb and I made it by 11 am. This was the Frankish castle of Chlemoutsi, a medieval castle built in the early 1220s by the Crusader rulers as their main stronghold and is a perfect example of the fortification used by the Frankish rulers in Greece. The castle is located on a plateau 230 metres above sea level. The castle is largely preserved in its original 13th-century state, with only minor later modifications for the installation of artillery. Especially the views of the surrounding area and the sea were beautiful. The Franks were avid traders; there was a coin collection – and ancient coins could be seen from England to the Krim, including Hungarian Denar from the 14th century.
The Franks built this large castle at the top of the hill...
...with a great view...
...some 800 years ago...
...and traded with other kingdoms, even Hungary
I spent an hour and a half at the castle, then continued my trip. Alas, alas, the situation with the bike was not improving; it was “bleeding” from two wounds – both the gearbox and the hub were causing issues. Patras – so the ferry – was 75 kilometers away, and very frustrated, I made the decision to return home.
To bury my frustration, I spotted a restaurant with men (and just men) eating at a home-cooking-style place. I entered, and there were delicious plates full of food to be seen. I ordered a kebab with French fries, a plate of excellent peppers and tomato filled with rice, next to it cheese and cucumbers – it made me feel better. I asked the host to hand over a big piece of paper, on which I wrote “PATRAS” in big letters. The lady was shaking her head, mentioning it would not work.
Lunch in progress
Well, she turned out to be correct; no one picked me up that day. However, there was a bus service leaving after about 40 minutes’ wait time. For €7.50, I was now riding back to Patras, with my bike in the belly of the bus – not an issue in Greece (in Austria, this would be impossible). I asked the driver to let me out at the ferry terminal and rode there.
With a heavy heart, I purchased a ticket for the following evening, departure at 9 pm, destination Venice. I was sad for missing out on Olympia, which was not far, and I would have wanted to continue riding; I still would have had a couple of days – then to return somehow by September 4. Well, that is life.
In Patras, I booked a nice central hotel for €50, called Hotel Mediterranée (here is the link). It advertizes itself as a "pleasant & friendly hotel" - yes, I can attest that. Indeed, very friendly, all the staff was really welcoming and helpful - and this for a reasonable amount.
On this Sunday, the number of people in town did not increase. I reached the hotel around 6 pm, rested for a while, then went for a walk in the evening. Here I met a biker; we chatted for a while. He was from Athens and a barkeeper. I told him about my meeting Helena in the mountains – and mentioned she was looking for a job; I gave him Helena's details. When he got connected with her on social media, it turned out they had mutual acquaintances. Small world, ey?
I enjoyed a pretty sunset from the quay of Patras and walked around the empty Patras.
Sunset from the quay
Still no crowds
Good night!
Well, without the rides in Patras, the ride before the bus was just 21 km with 215 meters of elevation. I did not measure riding around in town, but it was not too long.