March 12 - A Day in Cao Bang

Despite me disliking pretty much everything about this hotel, I slept really well. The grating was thankfully open when I left, looking for a bike shop shown on Google Maps. I was unable to ride (the bolt holding the derailleur holding the chain was gone), so was shoving the bike - a lady at a market thought it was funny, hehehe. The shop was about a mile away, crossed a river and found the address. Well, do not believe everything you read, not even in Google. There was no longer a bike store there, they had closed down. My hopes of finding a solution in town were diminishing, but at the same time, probably not consciously, started regarding this setback as part of the adventure - and tried to make the best of it.

I managed to find another bike shop, a rather rudimentary one, the guy there was nice, even spoke a few words of English, but was unable to help. So I decided to take care of a few items apart from my bike. It had been a week since I arrived, so laundry was due, then I had not shaven for the last couple of days. At my hotel, they agreed to wash my clothes for some two dollars, then I found a street full of barber seats - just seats, not shops - one of them agreed to shave me for a buck.

Street full of barber seats - all of them covered

That's not a Lenin statue - it's me getting a shave (selfie)

I then saw a large guy, one of very few, riding a well-equipped bike, I ran up to him and asked if he knew a shop, he told me to follow. He navigated me to a street mechanic, similar to the one that fixed my flat back in Hanoi and via Google Translate, he told me they had a temporary solution to the issue: they would remove the derailleur altogether, make the chain shorter - at least I would be able to ride, without shifting. I thought it was a good idea - by that time I knew I had no other option but to return to Hanoi (by bus). They worked for an hour or so for two dollars, after which I was now in the saddle again - a bit like a bird flying with a broken wing. Oh well, let's stop right here with self-pity.

Cao Bang is a lively town with about 85,000 inhabitants. Buses for Hanoi were leaving in the evening, which gave time to dry my clothes and explore the town. Here some of the impressions.

Uncle Ho is watching you

For the world peace

Inhabitant of the river at Cao Bang

Smith

Lunch

Quite colorful, eh?

View of the town, with the fish market at the front

Hmm, that were maybe a bit too many pictures. Anyway, in the evening I left for the bus station and was up for a nice surprise. The modern buses to Hanoi were equipped with lie-flat beds. The bus would need the entire night for the 300 kilometers in the curvy roads, leaving around 7:30 pm, arriving at 5 am, meaning an average of just 30 km/h. It cost around 10 dollars, so not too expensive, and comes with a duvet and a pillow.

Before boarding, I used the restroom, which cost 3000 Dongs (or 10 cents). I paid that, then asked the lady collecting the money to give change for my 500,000 bill. She only returned 497,000 Dongs, claiming I hadn't paid. Even though the amount in question was literally peanuts, I got into an argument with her - she refused to give the exact change, her wailing in a high-pitched voice. Out of principle, I did not give up, so I grabbed a bubble gum she was selling - this did the trick. She promptly returned the 3,000. All was well.

I managed to actually fall asleep - a feat that rarely happens when traveling.

Inside of the bus: three beds abreast, over two floors - quite luxurious