Day 8 – Tuesday, February 3, 2026

I guess my campground did not make it to my list of favorite ones, though it did have its merits. It is located midst of wetlands and it is paradise for ornithologists. You can also go kayaking, hiking and at the beach, surfing. So you might want to stop by Camping Santiago Waves.

Camping Santiago Waves

My goal was to head towards the north, so I left early, around 8 am. First, I had to backtrack those 7 km to reach the main road - and thought I would soon be at the coast itself.

How wrong I was. The road to the coast, then later parallel to the sea, was a true roller-coaster. I would slowly push upwards, drop down close to sea level and the drill repeated itself. For the 105 km I rode ("nothing special"), the ascent was over 1,150 meters - and that following coastline. (I will try to post the elevation profile). It was a pretty ride, though, with eagles soaring above (probably thinking that sunburnt slow rider could become their prey...) and of course the blue vastness of the ocean.

What a rollercoaster!

It was here that I noticed something unique to South America, it being both in Chile and Peru. Accidents do happen on roads, and, alas, people do die. Usually, there is a cross or some plastic flowers, maybe a tiny shrine. Here it is quite different. Huge structures would serve as a memory to the fatal accidents. I thought I was coming to a toy shop, there was a long line of teddy bears - dozens of them. It was apparently im memory of a child. It was moving. Later, I would see models of cars or trucks that were involved in the crash.

I hope it was not unappropriate to take a photo...

I made it to a large town called Los Vilos. Right when I arrived, three local girls welcomed me eagerly - and I must have been cooking red, they presented me with a bottle of sunscreen.

Friendly welcome

Then I visited a local bike shop to try to get my headlights fixed, there were so nice, they treated me with water and cookies - but had no knowledge of the dynamo.

It was time for a dip at the local beach. I asked a young girl selling ice-cream if she could mind my bike- it turned out she spoke perfect English (which is not too often around here). To thank her after the swim, I gave her a box of cookies (no, not the one from the bike shop, they were in my belly), she was so moved, she started weeping. Then she treated me for some ice-cream. Quite amazing, these Chilean people. Where I live, such generosity and kindness is almost completely absent.

The beach at Los Vilos

The friendly young ice-cream girl

Palm trees

The day was not over yet, I decided to push further, more inclines, needless to say. I got to a very cool campground at Playa Chigualoco. There was a small bistro not far and the young lady serving me gave freshly baked warm bread as an extra. Gracias!

Playa Chigualoco

View from my dinner

I had some trouble falling asleep, as some of my neighbors were playing loud music...but then I dozed off.