Day 41 – Sunday, March 8, 2026

I left my B&B (where the second B, the breakfast, was missing) in Palpa a bit later than I planned to, but then I am getting a bit tired. There was a small climb to Rio Grande (where the river was indeed grande) - and there was so much superfluous water that the area was full of truck wash stops. The view was really impressive.

Rugged mountains behind fertile lands

Soccer match going on

Than a large climb began, there were quite a few switchbacks. It eventually levelled out - and then it weas a drop. The other side of the mountain was a pleasant, green area with trees offering shade. Wow, a pleasant surprise! There was a shed meant for tired travelers like me, where I had a snack. I was looking forward to the road ahead.

My joy lasted just a kilometer or two. What followed was heat, headwind, unpleasant road with the shoulder missing and pretty aggressive truck drivers. For the first time on this trip my phone messaged that it was overheating. My water supplies started running low.

Not the most interesting area

Due to the wind and the relentless drivers, progress was painstakingly slow. I thought of hitchhiking, but guessed my chances as low of getting picked up. On top of all this, the scenery was completely uninteresting.

Luckily, a small shed was selling some refreshments, herean older man was drinking tea. I hardly expected to see (i.e. hear) anyone speak English, but he, as the owner of a smaller mine, spoke really well. We chatted about Peru, then of international politics and he said he is a big fan of Putin. I wished we never had started chatting - anyhow, I almost fell asleep while talking, so exhausted was I.

He left and I collected some strength and continued the struggle. A big drop came, after which the scenery changed - now it wad a long valley with trees, agricultural fields and villages that seemed to never end.

There were a few nice churches - but traffic was still the issue. About half of the cars honked at me, I never knew whether it was cheering ne on, signaling "hey, just telling you that I am coming" or "MOVE YOUR ARSE AWAY" - I treated all these interactions as the last one, so I headed for the uneven gravel mixed with holes and sand on the shoulder. As such, even in the green area, progress was still slow.

In one the villages I heard loud music as if it were from a Kustorica film - and saw villagers dancing salsa to Balkan music.

Kustorica would have been pleased

Close to the town of Ica, there was a motorbike rider taking a peaceful nap next to the PanAmerican Highway.

Resting next to the PanAmerican Highway

I got to Ica and was surprised to see orderly houses with gardens, well-maintained roads, supermarkets, even a mall.

I booked a nice hotel for about €35, got to my room and was too beat to go anywhere. It's been just 100 km, but I feel I had done a double or so.

Time to relax...