Day 10 – Thursday, February 5, 2026

After the rollercoaster ride of the previous day, I took some time to start cycling this day. It was a lot "smoother" landscape, yes, there were inclines, but I chopped the kilometers quicly. Now there were two obstacles: having reached the coast again, I had quite a headwind (why is there never a tailwind when biking?) and the sun was super strong.

There were not many highlights that day, maybe that I rode through an area selling goat cheese. Here one vendor after the other was lined up. I did meet a "delinquent", a poor goat that was stuck between the freeway and the barrier that was meant to protect animals from getting there. I did spot a car of the road works stopping, I reported this poor soul. Hopefully they were able to capture it amd move it to a safer place.

Scores of goat cheese vendors

Poor goat got stuck between a fence and the freeway

In the late afternoon, I reached the twin towns of La Serena/Coquimbo, with large beaches, a huge concrete cross. The Cruz del Tercer Milenio "Third Millennium Cross") is an 83 meter tall, 40 meter wide, concrete cross, which was finished in 2001. It was considered the tallest monument in South America. However, I did not visit it (no regrets).

A latge cross at Cquimbo

There was also a large tower - it was actually a minaret, called Mohammed VI Center for the Dialogue of Civilizations, and was built in collaboration with the Kingdom of Morocco. As this was also a structure without historiy (it was finished in 2021), I skipped it as well.

...and a large church at Couimbo

Actually, I was on a mission - which proved to be impossible - where I spent the afternoon and the following morning - trying to find a shop that would be able to repair my lights. As said, I failed here - having visited six or seven bike shops and even an electrician.

I rode through a tranquil residential area, with pretty and well-maintained family homes - this could have been anywhere in an affluent town in the USA. Dinner was at a cool, hype diner - I was lucky to get a table, a few minutes after me, a long queue formed.

A super popular restaurant

A yummy hamburger

After dinner, I started looking for accommodation. By now I have realized that I am in the Switzerland of South America (thanks to my fellow biker, Sándor) and was hardly surprised to see most places would ask for €100 per night - quite above my budget. I did locate a hostel that charged the half and started heading towards it.

The pretty neighborhood gave way to a rather shabby part of town (I believe this is the historic center) and I felt a bit unsafe. Then three stray dogs started chasing me and I missed the nondescript, run-down entrance of my hostel

The first room that was shown made my stomach turn, but the caretaker lady, having some empathy, "upgraded" me to a much prettier room with its own bathroom and a really comfy bed. Moreover, the hostel has a washer/dryer - so I was able to get refreshed again. The distance was 120km and 1,030 meters of ascent.