Day 30 – Wednesday, February 25, 2026

One reason I rode 192 km the previous day is that I was experiencing some bike troubles - yes, again. All bike shops open at 10 am, so I had a leisurely (and, admittedly a large) breakfast at my mansion-like hotel.

I had plenty of time at the buffet breakfast; Serving #1

Colonial Style

Now you might want to skip this section if you're not interested in how I managed to get my bike fixed in Iquique.

My hunch feeling (aided by Google review) led me to a bike shop somewhere in town - but it was closed. So I went to my second-best hunch feeling-shop (still with the help of Google reviews). There a guy from Cuba tried to get the issue fixed. Similar to my problem in Greece the previous summer, the shifting cables needed replacement, as they were worn out (maybe time to shift over to electronic shifting?). He did not have a small screwdriver, so I offered to buy one. Oh, what a cool country! There was a large home renovation and construction store about a mile away. I hailed a cab - it stopped, though two others were in. For €1, I got there, picked up the part. There was some music blairing, it went "Don't let the lights go out", in that very moment there was a 30-second blackout. I swear this is exactly how it happened.

For another €1 back to the store. Not even with the new tool was he able to mend the issue. Sone two hours were gone. A third bike store was so busy that they did not even talk to me, so I returned to the first store, with the best reviews, which at the first visit was closed.

It was a modern, brand new store with wonderful bicycles; he took my bike, told me to return in an hour. In the vicinity, I found a coffee shop, where I relaxed and did some people-watching. Iquique is apparently quite an affluent town, there was a private medical center, with well-to-do clients. After an hour or so, the guy called me that the issue was resolved! I was quite happy, but alas, when testing it, while it was much better, they were still some rattling noise from the back. Yet again, it turned out that the issue was with the bearing, just like in Antofagasta.

By then, it was 2 pm, he told me he would close for sieste and that I should return at 4 pm. I rode downtown, visited a wonderful cathedral, marveled at impressive colonial buildings and had a truly excellent chicken.

Nice cathedral

What does Balazs do if the bike is not around? Eat!

Some pretty buildings

At 4 pm, I returned with my bike and by 5:30, the issue was resolved, thanks to the Magician II!

He did a great job! Similar to the fellow near Los Andes

For a first time on thus trip, it was truly hot and I did feel (I almost fell asleep whole waiting for the bike), so I thought of staying in town and leaving at dawn the next day. There was a huge climb waiting for me - the only way to get out of town towards the north - you had to climb to 1,200m from sea-level, eastwards.

I thought about it and I said I might as well start riding into the settling sun and get as far as I could that evening. I got some supplies, especially water, and I started my ascent.

Traffic was heavy, to make things worse, a battered car - which also had an issue with the ascent, like me - kept stopping in front of me, thus blocking the narrow shoulder. I had to overtake it like five times.

From the incline, I got a glimpse of the sociodemographic situation in Chile. Next to the road was a slum, then small, shabby family homes, followed by modern, high rise buildings. The do-called Gini coefficient, which measures the gap between rich and poor, is one of the highest in all OECD countries - though in recent years it has shown signs of improvement.

Slum close to the road, then some shabby family homes, followed by high-rise buildings

My suffering with the steep ascent was eased by amazing views of the settling sun. It was incredible how this town was tucked between the ocean, a mountain (I was riding on) and a sand dune even the Sahara would be proud of. This sand dune fascinated me.

The huge sand dune at the edge of town

Bird´s eye view

Yet again, I am not sure whether the pics can truly reflect the magnificient sight...

Near the top of the ascent, I heard sone rytmic thumping noise. First, I thought it was from cars crossing a bridge, but then the puzzle was resolved - it was a marching (?) band of youngsters with trumpets and drums playing, apparently, to their own entertainment. Alas, while I could have asked, a steep gorge separated us. They were bidding farewell to the sun, which by now was dipping into the ocean.

Marching band

There was a large flat area with a lookout and the thought of pitching my tent there crossed my mind. Something of a sixth or seventh sense told me not to and when I asked a young couple if they thought it would be safe, they negated this proposition firmly.

I was at a rather ugly satellite town called Alto Hospicio, where, as I have just learned from Copilot, protests about violence and security issues have taken place. As it said: "it is not necessarily an everyday warzone, but it's something travelers should be aware of".

OK, I got it, no wildcamping. I did find a rundown hotel, where I was able to spend the night for €30. Similar to my hideous hostel in La Serena, the elderly lady caretaker was very friendly, offered me a tea. My room was actually clean and comfortable - though I shall probably (and hopefully) never return there.

A closing comment about Iquique: just like in La Serena, I spent most of my timne trying to get bike issues fixed - so did not really explore the town and missed out on some nice beaches - oh well, a reason to return!